Travelling Sumba Solo by Scooter
I decided to go on an adventure to Sumba solo. The catalyst was to visit The Sanubari resort and see the potential for running Tantra Yoga retreats there. Whilst there, I felt it might be nice to explore the island. I got so much more than just exploration of the island, it was an opportunity to really practice going within and reinforcing the trust I have in life and myself, igniting my self worth and confidence and freeing myself of the mind’s potentially endless pondering of how best to journey. I just got on with it and loved it! In this blog you’ll find out about my journey and some topics that I hope will inform and support your own, should you ever choose to visit Sumba.
How to Get to Sumba Island
Top Travel Tips
What to Bring?
From Tambolaka to Your Accommodation
Getting Around Sumba
What Can You Expect on the Roads?
How long to stay in Sumba?
Exploring Local Traditions
Is Sumba Expensive?
Stays in South-West Sumba
Where to stay and eat near Waingapu?
My Stay in East Sumba
Where to Stay Near Tambolaka?
Recommendations by Others from the Island
Is Sumba Safe for Solo Female Travellers?
How to Get to Sumba Island
The most economical way to reach Sumba Island is by flying from Denpasar, Bali to Tambolaka Airport. The west side of the island is more popular with visitors due to its convenient transport links and access to a cluster of stunning locations and instagram-worthy tourist spots. Although flights to Waingapu are more expensive, the adventure of exploring Sumba's charming savannah landscapes makes it worthwhile. Despite the sparse supplies and seemingly little variation, I discovered beauty in every corner of the island. For those seeking adventure, I highly recommend exploring all that Sumba has to offer.
Top Travel Tips for Sumba
Always Travel with Insurance: It safeguards you against accidents, loss, theft and more and generally gives you peace of mind. Sumba can be very limited with resources and conveniences depending on where you are. I did hear that people can potentially be opportunistic with tourists, especially if alone at night. I never had any issues and made sure to be tucked comfortably in a homestay or hotel for the afternoon into evenings.
Mosquito Repellent: Although I didn't need it and wasn't bothered by mosquitoes, it's a good precaution.
Renting a Scooter: If you're keen to explore Sumba by scooter, I highly recommend Adriana. I found her through another travel blog, and she was fantastic. Adriana and her daughter met me at Tambolaka Airport with a new Vario 125cc scooter and a helmet. She had sent me options beforehand. While the helmet was a bit large, tightening it made it workable—though next time, I'll ask if she has different sizes. You can connect with Adriana on WhatsApp at +62 81384788440. Her sweet daughters even collected the bike from me at the airport when I was ready to check in.
Fuel for Your Scooter: Ensure you always have enough fuel as there can be long stretches where it’s mainly nature you drive past. A 1.5-litre bottle costs around 20,000 IDR by the roadside. Be aware that some vendors might try to overcharge; I initially got quoted double by the first friendly bensin (petrol) seller by the roadside out of Tambolaka Airport. I actually had no idea what to pay but offered him only 50,000 IDR for a fill-up and he accepted. It was exactly the amount they typically charge.
What to Bring?
What you pack depends on your plans, but here are my essentials for a minimal and efficient trip with content creation requirements:
Clothing: Basic comfortable clothes appropriate for exercise and easy movement, a sarong for repurposing as a towel and scarf etc, long sleeves and pants for sun protection while riding on the roads. One pair of sandals and solid waterproof Timberland boots. A nice set of clothing if you wish to dine out in finer restaurants of the hotels.
Travel Bags: Backpacks rather than suitcases made a lot of sense for a scooter journey. Largest I had was 45L, then I just had my smaller carry on backpack.
Toiletries and Sunscreen: Essential for creature comforts and protection. There are supermarkets in the main cities Waikabubak and Waingapu that sell these things if need be.
Tech Gear: Camera, drone, laptop, SD cards, mini mics if needed and a mini tripod to capture and work on the go.
Accessories: Wide sunglasses for eye protection from the wind whilst riding the scooter and from the sun
Rain Jacket: I didn’t have this and it would have been very helpful when riding in the rain.
Cultural Considerations: I realised that wearing long sleeves and pants would have been more practical for sun protection and possibly more respectful than my denim shorts and t-shirt while riding for body coverage.
Indonesian SIM card: It was a game changer to have internet on my phone as I used it for navigating my positions around the island and whether I was headed in the right direction.
From Tambolaka to Your Accommodation
Most hotels can arrange transfers for you, ensuring a hassle-free journey. For a more economical and adventurous option, I rented a scooter directly from the airport and drove myself. While this approach offers more freedom, I understand it may not suit everyone. If you're unsure, reach out to your hotel for assistance and advice on the best transportation options available.
Getting Around Sumba
Want a real immersion into the atmosphere of the island? Get on a scooter like I did. Only really works if you’ve packed lightly with an easy backpack to carry. I had a smaller backpack that sat in between legs on the step and then carried a 45L on my back with the bulk of my things in it. Any time it got a bit tedious, just take a stop, stretch out, flick out your body and carry on the journey.
There are also rental cars available and so this can be useful if you seek to do exploring on your own, however, many of the touristy locations like waterfalls and mountain view locations require a driver’s road knowledge. I tried to find a few places myself with just Maps or Google Maps and was successful only half the time, whilst also having to navigate fairly dodgy, washed out sections of road—all part of my adventure!
What Can You Expect on the Roads?
Traveling around Sumba on a scooter is an adventure in itself, filled with delightful surprises and a few challenges.
Friendly Locals: As a solo traveler on a scooter, I was greeted with smiles everywhere. Children waved and screamed in delight, probably not seeing many tourists like me.
Betel Nut Lips: Many locals chew betel nut, a common psychoactive substance in South and Southeast Asia. It gives them red-stained teeth and lips. Chewing betel nut provides an energy boost due to its natural alkaloids releasing adrenaline.
Diverse Landscapes: In the west and central regions, you'll see lush jungles, green rice paddies, local villagers and lots of buffaloes. Owners who have buffaloes with very largest horns a mark of significance and wealth. Everywhere you’ll come across goats, Sumbanese horses, dogs and cats. As you move east, the landscape changes to charming rolling savannah hills and sparse dry forests. The far east is quite dry with limited lush vegetation, making fruits harder to come by.
School Children: You'll encounter school children in various coloured uniforms walking home together, adding to the vibrant local life.
Traditional Houses: The west side of Sumba is dotted with colourful wooden shack houses with high-pitched roofs made of bright corrugated iron or coconut leaf thatching, reflecting traditional Sumbanese architecture. East side has traditional villages but they are away from the main roads.
Stunning Beaches: The west and south coasts boast stunning beaches, some pristine and clean, especially those privatised by resorts like The Sanubari and Nihi. The southeast coast is wilder, with mostly deserted beaches where you might see the occasional villager or fisherman.
Unexpected Encounters: I had some unusual encounters on the road—a dog dragging itself to reveal a 15cm worm 😱. I saw a live pet duck strapped to a car roof along with luggage, which made me laugh out loud. Goats cross the road and don’t move when you approach. I thought they would and nearly hit one on two separate occasions. Giant bugs and beetles occasionally thwacked into my shoulders and chest with a little ouch. I also accidentally drove over a snake. RIP, snake. 🪦🐍
Road Conditions: Be prepared for roadworks as the island appears to be investing in upgrading its travel network. In less developed areas, dirt roads and rain made driving very slippery to navigate, causing a few close calls. 😅
Precarious Bridges: On the way to Morinda Villa and Resto, Maps directed me and my scooter across a precarious planked suspension bridge. I saw two locals riding their scooters coming towards me so I did too in the other direction. As I went I became aware of sections in the bridge with gaps wider than my helmet on either side. “Stay on the centre beam,” I thought and “keep going, don’t stop!”
Navigating Sumba’s roads on a scooter is a mix of fun and challenges, but it's all part of the adventure that makes the journey unforgettable.
How Long to Stay in Sumba?
I stayed in Sumba for a week, which allowed me to explore both the west and east sides of the island. This timeframe was sufficient to get a good sense of the island's diverse landscapes and culture, but I found myself wishing for more time to fully immerse in its beauty. I recommend spending at least four days in Sumba to truly appreciate its cultural richness and stunning scenery. However, if your schedule allows, extending your stay to two weeks would offer a more leisurely and thorough experience.
Exploring Local traditions
During my time in Sumba, I delved a little into the rich tapestry of local traditions and cultural practices, gaining insights that left a lasting impression.
Marapu House Designs
I stumbled upon a book at the Sumba Beach House restaurant, which introduced me to the intriguing architecture of traditional Marapu, the original Sumba religion. These structures feature four wooden central posts, symbolising the "linga" (penis) and crowned with a large round wooden disk representing the "yoni" (vagina). This symbolism, reminiscent of Tantra, reflects the Marapu belief in the harmonious balance between the masculine and feminine principles in creation, considering the Father of Creation and the Mother of Being as working together in harmony to create and support life. It's a powerful reminder of how ancient cultures perceive and honour higher powers beyond human understanding.
Mamuli and Royal Sculptures
In an antique shop, I encountered the "mamuli," intriguing sculptures with deep cultural significance. As I learned about their symbolism, the old crone shopkeeper tried to explain the meaning of them to me in broken English and then her son piped in that they are "vaaa-jeeee-nas!” How he said it, including the way his mouth moved to emphasis the “gi” part of “vagina,” made me giggle inside. I couldn't resist purchasing a pair of these unique artefacts, now affectionately known as my "vagina earrings."
King Sumba
In the antique shop and on Ikat everywhere you go, I observed depictions of the King of Sumba, a fierce slender warrior on a horse. Apparently he currently has six wives, which speaks to the cultural norms and traditions surrounding marriage and status in Sumba society. Marapu men are permitted to wed as many women as they can afford with the exchanging of dowries consisting of money, buffalo and other livestock.
Ikat Weavings
Another captivating aspect of Sumbanese culture is the intricate art of weaving, particularly the creation of ikat textiles by village women. These textiles, adorned with natural dyes and intricate patterns, are a testament to the craftsmanship and artistic heritage of the Sumbanese people. While they can be pricey in shops from 2,000,0000 up to 8,000,000 IDR, I was fortunate to find one for my dad’s birthday at 1,000,000 IDR and a few small, affordable pieces at Tambolaka airport (150,000 IDR each), making them accessible as unique gifts and souvenirs. Direct buys from locals, you may pay around 800,000 IDR for large pieces.
Pasola Festival
Although I didn't have the opportunity to fully experience it, I learned about the Pasola festival, a significant cultural event in Sumba. This traditional ritual involves mounted spear-fighting between rival groups, symbolising the cycle of life, death and regeneration. Attending the Pasola festival would undoubtedly offer a profound insight into the authentic spirit of Sumbanese culture.
Exploring these traditions and artefacts provided me with a deeper appreciation for the cultural richness and heritage of Sumba, leaving me with cherished memories and a newfound understanding of this captivating island.
Is Sumba expensive?
While exploring Sumba, I discovered that expenses can add up quickly. Here's a breakdown of what to expect:
Meals
Dining out in Sumba can range from 35,000 IDR to 100,000 IDR per meal at local eateries. However, upscale dining establishments like The Sanubari may charge upwards of 500,000 IDR for a meal, including drinks and snacks.
Scooter Rental
Renting a scooter for exploration costs around 150,000 IDR per day, with fuel prices averaging 50,000 IDR for a full tank.
Shopping
Traditional wares and handicrafts in Sumba may be pricier due to limited access to resources. Expect to pay around 800,000 IDR for locally made goods like ikat textiles or wooden carvings.
Accommodation
Expect to pay from 400,000 IDR up to 5,000,000+ IDR per night for your accommodation. You get what you pay for.
Stays in South-West Sumba
During my exploration of South-West Sumba, I had the opportunity to experience various accommodations. Here are my recommendations:
The Sanubari
For those seeking a luxurious beach getaway, The Sanubari is unparalleled. Nestled along the coastline, this resort offers a slice of paradise with its immaculate villas strategically positioned on the beach. From the moment you enter through the security gate to the picturesque restaurant and stunning pools, every aspect exudes opulence and tranquility.
Sumba Beach House
Situated on Kerewe Beach, Sumba Beach House offers a charming retreat with its cozy accommodations. Despite experiencing occasional electricity outages during my stay, the warm hospitality and delectable cuisine compensated for any inconveniences. The beachside atmosphere, coupled with the local culture of swimming and horse riding, adds to the allure of this destination.
Bobocabin
Providing a self-sufficient and serene retreat, Bobocabin offers a picturesque setting for a relaxing stay. While I appreciated the scenic views, I found the restaurant menu to be somewhat lacking. Nonetheless, the sturdy accommodations and beautiful surroundings make it a noteworthy option for travellers seeking tranquility amidst nature.
Where to Stay and Eat in Waingapu?
If you find yourself in Waingapu and in search of a serene retreat and delectable dining experiences, consider the following recommendations:
Morinda Villa and Resto
For a tranquil getaway with breathtaking views, Morinda Villa and Resto offers a serene oasis. During my stay, I had the pleasure of befriending the hospitable hotel owner, who showcased his extensive collection of Ikats. I purchased one from him. The secluded bungalow on his nearby property provides a peaceful setting amidst rolling green mountains. I looooved my sunrise yoga practice there and some flight time for my drone. Don't miss the opportunity to see it if you can, you may even witness the majestic wild Sumbanese horses roaming the nearby hills.
PC Corner Cafe
While Waingapu may lack the charm of other destinations, PC Corner Cafe stands out as a delightful dining spot. I was pleasantly surprised by the delicious food and friendly service offered here. Whether you're passing through or looking for a reliable eatery with a picturesque view and inviting atmosphere, PC Corner Cafe is a worthy choice.
My Stay in East Sumba
Venturing to the far reaches of East Sumba, I sought solace and productivity amidst the tranquil landscapes and ended up creating a tale of seclusion and serendipity.
Wajonata Sumba
Trekking across the island led me to Wajonata Sumba, an eco resort, a secluded retreat boasting picturesque gazebos and cozy bungalows. A humble haven. Despite the journey, the promise of peaceful workdays and ocean vistas beckoned. With reliable Wi-Fi and comfortable accommodations, it seemed an ideal setting for my endeavours. However, unpredictable weather disrupted my plans, prompting an upgrade to a bungalow. Despite the setback, the remainder of my stay was filled with tranquility, albeit cut short by the call of the westward road.
Costa Beach House and Club
Traveller beware of a misleading mirage! En route to my retreat, I stumbled upon the dilapidated remains of Costa Beach House and Club, once a promising haven as depicted on its Booking.com listing is now abandoned and forgotten. A cautionary tale for travellers, its online allure belies its deserted reality—a stark reminder of the untamed spirit of Sumba's wild west. As I pondered the fate of such ventures in the wake of Covid's impact, I couldn't help but marvel at the resilience elsewhere of this remote corner of the world.
Where to Stay Near Tambolaka?
Oro Beach Hotel
Conveniently fifteen minutes from the airport, I spent the last night of my journey here. I successfully journeyed six hours on my last full day from Waingapu to here just in time for the sunset and a Bintang! It was a really charming stay. I played dominoes and cards with the managers there and was served simple but delicious food. With its prime location right on the beach, Oro Beach Hotel promises breathtaking views of the ocean and star speckled night skies. Wifi is only available near the main lounge and dining areas but it provides a welcome opportunity to disconnect and fully embrace the tranquility of the surroundings. The beach is lovely for a walk and dip in the ocean.
Recommendations by Others from the Island
While I didn't personally visit these spots, they come highly recommended by locals:
Waterfalls: Matayangu & Laiwi are must-visit destinations for nature lovers.
Camp Tarimbang: Consider staying here for a memorable beach experience, reputedly one of the best beaches on the island. Experience your own slice of paradise.
Halura Island Camping: Venture to Sakura Island off the south coast for a unique camping experience. Arrange a trip with a local fisherman for an authentic adventure.
Is Sumba Safe for Solo Female Travellers?
Safety in Sumba largely depends on your own confidence and preparedness. Personal safety often stems from self-assurance. While I didn't feel threatened, my comfort came from a strong sense of self-reliance. I encountered curious locals but none felt threatening. A motorcyclist who followed me persistently as I rode my scooter along the central road I had to stand my ground with. I stopped hoping he would pass and he stopped too, hoping to make conversation. He asked in Bahasa where I was going along with other things I couldn’t understand. He insisted he wants to come with me. Firmly and a little menacingly setting my boundaries and saying “no” was key. He reluctantly relented and moved on.
Navigating rough roads on my scooter posed challenges. I did wonder about some of the wilder roads I had taken and whether my little Vario, new as it was, would be able to handle the roughness. Though, trust in the process was with me and so I resolved within myself that there was no option but to find a way forwards… or backwards if entirely necessary. In any case, locals I experienced were very friendly and offered help with no qualm.
In essence, while Sumba can present its own set of challenges, staying confident, assertive and prepared can contribute to a safe and enriching solo travel experience for a woman.
In Conclusion
One of the things that most astounded me about my experience in Sumba was how few tourists I came across. I only saw visitors to the island in the actual hotels I stayed in and so few at that. It was quite refreshing and had me feeling quite isolated but not in a bad way. It felt nice to be wildly disconnected from all that was familiar. All in all I am so grateful for this empowering experience and I do feel better, stronger and clearer for having undertaken it. I would say it was definitely a life-changing trip.
